There’s a quiet allure to vintage watches. They don’t just tell the time — they carry stories. Every dial, every bezel, every gentle sweep of the seconds hand is a whisper of decades past. Some were worn to important meetings, others to simple Sunday strolls. Owning a vintage watch means carrying a piece of that history with you.
But if you’re new to vintage timepieces, the choices can feel overwhelming. With brands, movements, sizes, and decades of design, it’s easy to feel lost. The truth is, you don’t need to be a collector or expert to find the right piece. What matters is discovering a watch that resonates with you.
Here’s a thoughtful guide to help you choose your first vintage watch.
1. Begin with the emotion
Before getting into technical details, think about what draws you in. Do you prefer sleek, understated elegance, or are you drawn to pieces with distinctive character?
Brands like Longines and Omega excel in refined, timeless aesthetics, offering slim cases, subtle dials, and a quiet sophistication. Meanwhile, Seiko and Maurice Lacroix often bring unique touches — sunburst dials, curved cases, or subtle textures that give a watch personality without overwhelming it.
A vintage watch is as much about feeling as function. Choose one that speaks to you, and the connection will be immediate.
2. Understand what “vintage” really means
Generally, a vintage watch is at least 20–30 years old, crafted at a time when attention to detail and longevity were paramount. The design of each decade has its own character:
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1960s: Minimalist, modernist, and clean
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1970s: Experimental shapes, playful touches, often gold-toned
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1980s: Elegant, precise, sometimes bold with subtle flair
Knowing the era you’re drawn to helps narrow your search and adds a layer of meaning to your choice.
3. Consider size and proportions
Women’s vintage watches tend to be smaller than modern styles, usually 20-30mm in diameter. Smaller proportions add quiet refinement rather than a loud statement.
If you prefer a slightly bolder profile, midsize or unisex pieces (30–36mm) offer a perfect balance. Many collectors favor these for their versatility and presence.
4. Mechanical or quartz?
This is one of the first technical choices you’ll face:
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Quartz: Battery-powered, precise, low-maintenance
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Mechanical (manual or automatic): Crafted with intricate gears, often featuring a smooth seconds hand and a tactile connection when winding
There’s no right or wrong here. It’s about what resonates. Mechanical watches carry tradition and craftsmanship, while quartz offers simplicity and reliability.
5. Condition matters more than perfection
A few signs of age add charm. But certain details are essential:
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Dials should be legible, with hands intact
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Crystals should be free of major cracks or deep scratches
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Movements, especially mechanical ones, should run smoothly or have been recently serviced
At By the Hour, every piece is checked thoroughly and described accurately, making your first vintage watch choice more confident and enjoyable.
6. Brand heritage and appeal
Some brands combine design, history, and accessibility, making them excellent starting points:
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Seiko: Durable, reliable, and stylish
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Longines: Timeless elegance with classic design
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Maurice Lacroix: Subtle charm from the 1980s–1990s
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Cyma: Often overlooked, highly collectible, precise
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Omega: Recognized prestige with lasting appeal
These brands allow first-time buyers to enjoy both aesthetic beauty and a connection to horological heritage.
7. Beyond style: the emotional dimension
A vintage watch is more than an accessory. It’s a connection to artistry and history, an object that has endured. Choosing your first piece isn’t about price or rarity. It’s about the story it tells and how it resonates with you.
And if you’re exploring vintage watches and secondhand luxury, that’s exactly where By the Hour comes in — curating and presenting timepieces that combine history, craftsmanship, and personality altogether, making vintage discovery effortless.